I cruised under the Channel this week to attend Paris des Chefs, a three-day food festival. It’s now being held in the Maison de la Mutualité in the 5th, a vast, creamy Art Deco palazzo that has recently been refurbished by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. Happily, it’s across the street from Eric Kayser’s bakery in the Rue Monge, still one of the bonnes adresses for baguettes d’auteur.